Ceramic Tile brings a texture, richness and color to a room
that Linoleum has yet to truly mimic. Tile floors can be
installed in any room, however they are most frequently
seen in Bathrooms and Kitchens. I particularly like them
in entryways, where they serve as a transition point from
the outside to large carpeted or hardwood floored rooms.
They make for easy clean up and are impervious to water
damage.
Tile Types
Ceramic tiles come in two basic types. Glazed and Porcelain.
Glazed holds up the best for heavy traffic areas and porcelain
works well in bathrooms. Porcelain is typically more expensive,
so consider your budget and the size of the area you want
to tile. Tiles also come in many shapes and sizes. For flooring,
however, I would suggest using larger tiles up to 12”
x 12”.
Underlayment
For proper installation the base foundation or the underlayment
is critical. Typically it consists of ¾” to
1 ¼” of plywood. Tiling over Linoleum or existing
tile is also feasible, as long as it is solid. I also recommend
when Tiling over Linoleum that you first apply ring nails
or screws 6” on center over the entire area. Tiles
can also be installed directly over Concrete. Make sure
in all cases that the floor is level and free of dust and
debris prior to installation. There are leveling compounds
that you can apply before applying tile if necessary.
Preparing the Site
Before actually installing the tile, it is best to lay
it out in the room to see how it will look. Pay close attention
to how it runs out toward the walls, in the corners and
next to cabinets, tubs and toilets. The trick is to lay
the tile out such that stubby tiles do not show up in highly
visible spots. Once you have completed this, make two marks
with a pencil outlining the most centered tile. These lines
should be perpendicular to each other. Also take note of
the wall that is most visible from all the others. Now remove
the tiles. Next draw or snap a line perpendicular to this
wall that is in line with one of the marks you made on the
floor. Then, draw a perpendicular line to this first line.
This second line should be centered with the first line
and fairly in line with the second mark you made on the
floor. Once you have completed this task, re-layout some
of the tiles along the perpendicular lines and observe if
they run out in a way that will limit cutting and stubbed
tiles. Once this is completed, remove the tiles and prepare
for the actual installation.
Installing the Tile
Again, make sure the area is free of dirt and dust. Next
apply the ceramic adhesive or mastic to the flooring, starting
in the center, where the two perpendicular reference lines
intersect. Apply enough material to cover 6-10 square feet,
if no cuts are required. If cuts are required limit the
amount of mastic application to about 2-4 square feet. When
applying the mastic, first spread it with the flat end of
the trowel. Lay it on relatively thick, approximately 1/8”
to 3/16”thick. Then turn the trowel around and run
the notched edge over it. This creates ridges in the mastic
that helps to hold the tile down more securely. The larger
the tile, the larger the notches should be. For example,
I use a ¼” notched trowel for 12” x 12”
tiles.
Note: Only make up enough ceramic adhesive for 30 minutes,
as this material has the tendency to harden up rather quickly.
Once the adhesive has been applied, begin installing the
tiles working from the center outward. On larger tiles you
should back butter them. Basically, apply a thin coating
of mastic to the back of the tile prior to laying it on
the floor. This will help ensure a good bond.
As you near the walls or edges of cabinets, tubs and toilets,
you will need to cut some of the tiles. I highly recommend
the use of a Wet-Saw. A Wet-Saw will allow you to make very
accurate cuts, both large and small. You will also save
money, as you will waste many fewer tiles with bad cuts
or broken tiles. Wet-Saws are not that expensive and once
you see your finished product you will certainly be installing
more tile. Wet-Saws can also be rented as a cheaper alternative.
When applying Tiles, you may want to use Lugs. Lugs are
effectively spacers that come in various thicknesses. I
typically like to have no more than a ¼” space
between the tiles. Employing Spacers will ensure uniformity
with your tile spacing.
Grouting
After the Tile has been completely installed, allow it
to sit for 24-48 hours before applying grout and walking
on it. Grout comes in many different colors and is very
easy to install. Simply mix the grout with water or a special
bonding agent and apply with a rubber trowel. Run the trowel
on a bias when going over tile corners.
Once the grout has been applied, immediately wipe the tile
of excess grout, using a wet sponge and a bucket of water.
Wait 30 minutes and again wipe the tiles down of any residual
grout. Wait another 60 minutes and repeat. If grout is left
on the tiles to dry, you will have a great deal of elbow
work scraping it off.
Let the grout sit up for 24 hours and it is ready for use
and admiration.
About the Author
Me_Donovan@comcast.net
www.homeadditionplus.com
Over the past 20+ years Mr. Donovan has been involved
with building homes and home additions. Mr. Donovan's formal
education & profession have been as an Electrical Engineer
& Marketing Manager.
